HOW TO TAKE CARE OF YOUR PLANTS
A newly transplanted tree or shrub has
undergone a stressful event. Care for a short time will help
your plant quickly reestablish itself and produce for you the
beauty you want. The basic needs of your new plants following
planting are: WATER, FERTILIZER, and PROTECTION.
WATERING PROCEDURES
This is the most difficult to prescribe.
Too little water will cause your plants to wilt and die. Too
much water will cause them to yellow and drown. It may be
necessary to water once a day or once a week. Watering will
depend on plant species, size, location, and the weather
conditions. The following is a rule of thumb to follow for
normal conditions:
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Spring and fall planting while the plants are dormant: soak
your new plant thoroughly when planted, then 2 times the first
week and once a week thereafter.
-
Summer planting: Soak thoroughly when planted. Water 3 times
the first week, then 2 times a week for three weeks and once a
week thereafter. Don’t guess if a plant needs water. Take a
hand spade and dig down 6 inches along side of the plant. If
the ground is moist, the plant does not need water. If the
ground is dry, water the plant thoroughly.
NOTE:
-
Heavy clay soil or cool wet
weather – water less often. Check your plants.
-
Sandy soil or very hot weather
- water more often. Check your plants.
-
Plant roots are deep. When you water, soak thoroughly. The
best way to do this is to leave an open hose trickling at the
base of each plant until the ground absorbs all the water it
can.
-
Remember, plants can be killed by too much water. Don’t water
a little every day. Water heavily but only as scheduled.
FERTILIZATION
All nursery stock should be fertilized
once a year. (Early Spring) following the first growing season
for healthy plant material. Healthy plant material resists
disease. Don’t use a Turf Weed & Feed product on trees, shrubs,
or perennials; use only fertilizer.
PROTECTION
Plants require varying degrees of
protection against wind, insects, sunburn, rodents, and winter
damage.
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In most cases all planted trees that have smooth bark should
be wrapped with tree wrap in the fall of the first years to
guard against sunscald and frost cracks. The wrapping must be
removed the following spring.
-
Rabbits and mice can chew on the bark of many plants during
the winter. Some of the most susceptible plants are burning
bush and other Euonymus, flowering crabs, hawthorns, flowering
plums, flowering almond, Nanking cherry, willows, fruit trees,
hazelnut, witch hazel and young maples.
The best way to protect these plants is
to place a cylinder of mesh hardware wire around them at least
30 inches high. While this list includes the plants most
susceptible to damage, if rabbits get hungry enough, they may
injure other plants. Check your plants periodically during the
winter. Tree wrap is good to use to protect the bark.
Repellent sprays are also available for shrubs.
-
Certain plants need winter protection. All evergreens should
go into the winter with plenty of soil moisture. Roses must
be mounded with 6 – 12 inches of straw or leaf mulch or cover
with rose cones after a hard freeze in the fall. Don’t remove
cones until frost is out of the ground in spring.
-
Always keep your planting beds weed free by light frequent
cultivation, hand pulling or with the use of a herbicide.
This keeps the planting bed neat and prevents the weeds from
using water and fertilizer meant for the plants.
DANGER SIGNS:
-
Leaves look wilted, dry, and are dropping: not enough water,
add more.
-
Leaves look yellow, droopy, and brown or black at the margin:
too much water, apply less often and cultivate the soil to
allow it to dry.
-
Too much or too little both produce much of the same effect.
If you are not sure, dig down next to the roots. If the
ground is soggy and water logged there is too much water, if
the soil is dry there is not enough water.
PRUNING
Know the growth pattern of your plants
(round, oval, etc.) before your prune. Plants can be kept to a
desired size by pruning.
-
Evergreens: prune in early spring because new growth will
hide the cut. You can prune until the end of July to allow
wounds to heal before the plant goes dormant.
-
Trees & Shrubs: best to prune in late fall through early
spring while in the dormant stage.
-
Bleeding Trees: Maples, Birches, and Elms are best to prune
in late summer or early Fall. Otherwise flowing sap may
attract insects which spread disease.
-
Flowering Shrubs: Prune flowering shrubs soon after the
flowers have faded to allow time for new wood and bud
growth.
NOTE:
GUARANTEE
Shulfer’s Sprinklers, Landscaping, and
Garden Center shall supply one replacement plant or offer a
substitute plant under the following terms and conditions:
TERMS
Plants are guaranteed for one year form the
date of contractor’s installation.
Request for plant replacement must be made
within the one year guarantee period.
Guarantee is applicable only for invoices
paid within 30 days.
Transplanted plants or plants not hardy to
this climate zone are not guaranteed.
CONDITIONS
Microclimate or drainage shall not have
been altered after plant installation.
Installed plants shall have received
adequate water by owner as per the plant care brochure.
Breakage or damage after the plant is
installed by contractors is not covered under guarantee. Animal
or insect damage after the plant is installed by contractor is
not covered under guarantee.
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